Monthly Archives: September 2012

Leo’s Cajun Corner: We Don’t Cook Pretty, We Just Cook Good

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{This article originally appeared in The Island Guide, published September 14, 2012}

Leo’s Cajun Corner

‘We Don’t Cook Pretty, We Just Cook Good’

By Kimber Fountain

The first word that comes to mind for Leo’s Cajun Corner is authentic, in every sense of the word. Cajun cuisine is often imitated, and many times dishes are deemed such because a chef merely threw a little extra spice on the plate. That is not at all the case with Leo’s simple yet savory menu: true ‘Looziana’ style and family tradition are cooked into every bite. From the gumbo to the jambalaya to the homemade sausage, the recipes and techniques used in their kitchen and on-site smokehouse originated over one hundred years ago in the deep woods of Louisiana. Their flavor has been passed down through five generations and traveled hundreds of miles to bring the best of Cajun cuisine to Galveston Island for more than twenty years.

Leo’s serves up breakfast starting at 7am, and their regular menu is a Cajun lover’s dream come true. Riblets that melt in your mouth and absolutely superb crawfish etouffee are rounded out with homemade banana pudding, bread pudding, and carrot cake. Pork, beef, and seafood are all offered on plates or in sandwiches with varying preparations, along with a wide variety of sides and fixings. The portions are generous but not nearly as large as the flavor. Many different types of sausage, boudin, and other meats are sold in bulk, as are crawfish tails and homemade jerky.

But even more appealing than the Zydeco zest in their food is the philosophy behind this bayou-bred business. It was built upon the notion that great food does not have to be expensive, and Leo’s is committed to providing only ingredients that are fresh and never frozen, which easily makes it one of the best values in town. A comfortable yet simple dining room and a friendly, down-to-earth staff perfectly complement the broad palate of tastes offered on their menu. Rest assured that the quality is not only high but consistent, and more often than not your plate will be prepared by one of the family.

That family is led by Leo and Susan Mercantel. Their son Jody proudly attests that Susan herself is responsible for close to eighty percent of the output of the kitchen. Jody, who marks the fifth generation, began learning the intricacies of the smokehouse when he was five years old. For all of them, their fondest childhood memories are of Sunday afternoons at their respective grandparents’ homes, where the smell of the Cajun cooking wafted all the way into the woods where they played. As with any true Louisiana native, the term ‘family’ also encompasses their closest friends and neighbors. Tales of their culinary origins include seasonal travel to others’ houses to help each prepare the meats of the animals bred and raised on their own land.

As an adult Leo Mercantel found work in Lafayette as a roofer, and he and Susan often came to Galveston to vacation with Jody and his three sisters. However his true calling began when he purchased a small grocery store in which he had worked as a teen. He added all of his homemade sausages and smokehouse products to the inventory of the store, and Leo fondly recounts how many Texas folk, including several from Galveston, would drive over and load up their station wagons full of his smoked meats, all the while remarking how they could not seem to find anything of such type or quality where they lived. That store was located on a main part of Highway 165, and when the Cachada Casino was built the state purchased their property in order to expand the highway into four lanes. In their neck of the woods, smokehouses and homemade sausage were like Starbucks in a big city, on every corner. So they decided to take their talents to Galveston. The Island was not only their favorite vacation destination, but it was also a place where their food and products would surely stand out.

That was more than two decades ago, in 1991. The family graciously acknowledges the Island community that has provided their unending support, and attributes to it their longevity and staying power. But Leo’s Cajun Corner has given as much as they have received. In the aftermath of Hurricane Ike, it was Leo’s that was actually the very first restaurant to reopen, several days before a well-known restaurant on the seawall that is usually accredited with that distinction. The demand for prepared food was high, and so the health department generously gave them permission to cook with propane burners until the gas lines were restored. In the week after the storm they served over three thousand patrons who would form a line from the front door that stretched clear across the parking lot. Even if a person could not pay for a meal, Leo’s still fed them.

That was back when their establishment was housed in a small, 24×24 wooden building that they rented from the nuns of the Ursuline Convent. After purchasing the land they built their current building which opened in January of 2009. Although this new structure, with its clean and spacious interior, is a representation of the steady growth Leo’s Cajun Corner has enjoyed over the years, the atmosphere, service, and flavor still distinctly embody their humble beginnings as a Louisiana family that doesn’t cook pretty, they just cook good.

Dash Beardsley’s Ghost Tours of Galveston Island: History and Heroics of a Haunted Island

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{This article originally appeared in The Island Guide, published July 16, 2012}

Dash Beardsley’s Ghost Tours of Galveston Island

History and Heroics of a Haunted Island

by Kimber Fountain

              Dash Beardsley came to Galveston in 1998 because he was looking for a woman, but not just any woman… He wanted to meet Miss Bettie Brown herself, heiress, artist, and socialite of Galveston Island. Miss Bettie lived in Ashton Villa (2328 Broadway), she died in Ashton Villa, and according to many, has stayed at Ashton Villa. He spent three nights there, hoping for some contact with this rebellious, spunky, and fearless woman. But she stood him up.

So, Dash began to wander the streets of Galveston, broken-hearted and forlorn, and asked shop owners and employees the intriguing question, “Do you have a ghost story for me?” The thought of creating a ghost tour had not yet even entered his mind, he was merely curious. Well it didn’t take him too long until he had around fifteen or twenty ghost stories, and this intrigued him even more than the elusive lady with whom he had begun his quest.

Upon several attempts to research Galveston and her ghost stories, Dash found very little. And thus out of intrigue and curiosity, a tour was born. After he found little to no documentation whatsoever of Galveston’s hauntings, he did as any wise man would do and he cracked open the history books. He wanted to know why Galveston was so haunted, and even more mysterious, why no one was talking about them.

This is why every patron of Dash Beardsley’s Ghost Tours of Galveston concludes the tour with an astonished awe resulting from a candid, back-door view into Galveston’s history and mystery. His Original Ghost Tour reveals Galveston Island at its finest: heroic police officers, courageous schoolmarms, and fearless soldiers of the Civil War. All people who lived for Galveston in its heyday, who died with Galveston amid its tragedies, and who have stuck around, waiting to see if maybe, just maybe, we will be the generation that will make the Island grand again.

Shykatz Bakery & Deli: Feeding the Faith

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{This article originally appeared in the Island Guide, published August 31, 2012}

ShyKatZ Deli & Bakery:

Feeding the Faith

By Kimber Fountain

As the terms deli and bakery together may suggest, ShyKatZ is that perfect balance of salty and sweet, both in form and in flavor. Much like the duality between the sandy, vibrant seawall and the lolling historic downtown of Galveston, their rich, savory breakfast, crisp salads, and superb sandwiches are distinctly coupled with decadent desserts and an array of sugary delights. And in the same way the welcoming, soul-filled ambiance of ShyKatZ has risen from the hearts of two women who have known adversity, and defeated it. From the story of its beginning, to the décor, to the food, ShyKatZ Deli & Bakery is distinct in its graceful representation of the spirit of the Island.

Kathryne Kearns and Shyra Leger (pronounced Le-jay) met in 2006 in the Woodlands, and soon after the dream of ShyKatZ was born out of a mutual love for cooking and a passionate desire to feed the hungry. Long before they ever opened their doors, the sign that now hangs over the entrance to their deli was once hanging on the living room wall. Originally they decided that Austin would be the best choice for their new venture, until a guy named Ike showed up on Galveston’s doorstep. The aftermath and destruction left by this unwanted visitor was enough to drive many people, families, and businesses, off of Galveston Island for good. Kat and Shy, however, are of the other variety, the people who see any challenge as an opportunity and all obstacles as reasons to believe. So, in 2010 they quit their jobs and moved to Galveston with nigh more than one big dream and two week’s pay.

Through a series of setbacks and struggles that would have made many cut and run, the two determined ladies kept their dream, and their faith, alive. They continued to cook and to bake with whatever supplies they could get their hands on, and after they fed themselves they would feed their friends and those less fortunate. To each gift of goodness they attached a business card and a promise to open soon. Their tenacity and refusal to give up manifested and as they will gladly testify, Providence provided and ShyKatZ opened its doors on May 26, 2010, with just over one dollar in its business bank account. Since that day this quaint and unique eatery has sustained itself, and Shy and Kat continue to fill bellies and feed souls.

ShyKatZ offers a wide variety of high quality, homemade dishes along with an atmosphere and service that give the feel of home or grandma’s house. Under Shy’s direction in the kitchen absolutely everything is made to order, nothing is par-cooked or pre-sautéed. Their sandwiches are made using only Boar’s Head meats and cheeses; try one on their French, wheat, or white bread that is baked daily in-house. If a craving for breakfast should strike at two in the afternoon, never fear. ShyKatZ serves breakfast all day long, and rumor has it that their “Biscuits-N-Gravy” is the best of its kind on the Island. And don’t forget to seriously consider the ever-changing dessert presentation, also made from scratch in-house by Kat herself.

Much of the menu is inspired by the people in their lives, and many of their dishes are named after fellow Islanders or family members. If you order Granny or Pawpaw’s breakfast you will enjoy the favorite morning meal of Shy’s grandparents; the Jeff Salad is a Chef Salad named in honor of the gentleman who eats it almost every day for lunch. JJ’z Junior Menu, “for our Little Angels under 10,” was inspired by Kat’s grandchildren, and the Johanna burger is a tribute to the story of their friend Johanna and the lengths she would go to get a burger.

Indeed the most difficult decisions when visiting ShyKatZ will be choosing what to order and how in the world you will manage to save room for dessert (because you must), but it will be easy to feel comfortable. The most alluring facet of this humble eatery tucked away on a neighborhood street is its embodiment of everything Islander. Down to the furniture and seasonal salt and pepper shakers, ShyKatZ is a quintessential Galveston small business that reflects the eclectic, diverse, and easy-going population of locals. Their staff is friendly and accommodating, offering each patron personalized service that goes the extra mile beyond the counter. They are even on Island time, as the hours posted on the front door unabashedly state that they open at 7-ish.

One of the many reasons why so many love Galveston, and why thousands flock to our salty shores year after year, is because of the unique opportunity to support locally owned businesses and to enjoy all of the variety they allow. Amid the onslaught of fast food, corporate chains, and cookie-cutter products so widely and easily available, perhaps it is wise to often tread off the well-worn path and find a place with personality and heart. Anyone can serve a hot meal, but few accomplish it with the warmth, charm, and inspiration of ShyKatZ.

ShyKatZ Deli & Bakery

Breakfast and Lunch served all day long

Monday-Saturday 7am-3pm

409.770.0500

1528 Avenue L

(Corner of 16th and Ave. L)

Street Parking

Daily Blue Plate Specials

Carry Out/Box Lunches/Custom Catering

www.ShyKatZ.com

Owners, Kathryne Kearns and Shyra Leger